Ken Najorka will demonstrate proper and effective Riding Position in both English and Western seats. This is a educational and safety video brought to you by the Certified Horsemanship Association (CHA) For more information on the largest certifying body of riding instructors and barn managers in North America, Certified Horsemanship Association, please visit www.CHA.horse.

Read more: Good Riding Position with Ken Najorka (8:06)

Cheerful horse behavior is encouraged through equine enrichment, such as toys for horses, social interactions and movement.

Four Signs of a Happy Horse

You love your horse and do everything possible to ensure his health through equine vaccines, horse wormers, the best supplements and more. And of equal importance to horse health, is horse happiness.

We asked Robin Foster, Ph.D., certified equine behaviorist and university professor of 30 years, how horse owners can know whether their horses are as happy as they are healthy. She shared with us four key characteristics of happy horses -- engaged, enriched, social and moving -- and explained more about each unique component.

Engaged

Happy horses are engaged with life going on around them. They are active members in their social groupings and attentive to, and eagerly willing to, explore their environment.

Enriched

“Enrichment opportunities for horses have really grown dramatically,” Dr. Foster said, crediting positive changes made in zoo environments for large animals in confinement. “Minimizing the effects of isolation, stress and limited movement -- zoos have these same challenges, and the equine industry has borrowed from that,” she said.

Enrichment falls under different categories, such as sensory, movement and feeding enrichment, which offers horses the opportunity to enjoy treats and work for food, such as with problem-solving horse toys. Cognitive enrichment keeps their mind working and burns energy,” Dr. Foster said.

“The first job is to make sure it’s something your horse will work for. Some horses love certain enrichment items, while for other horses, they just sit there. Shop around and experiment,” suggested Dr. Foster. Horses can learn the game rather quickly through their curious nature or by watching another horse. “When they can see other horses, they learn very quickly that food comes out of that thing and they will give it a good try,” continued Dr. Foster.

Social

It’s important that from an early age, horses have social interactions with other horses to meet their social needs. Depending on how horses are housed, they often have limited social time even at a barn with other horses. This is also true in the human-horse interaction.

“No matter how much you care for your horse, humans have very complex lives with many demands -- the horse being only one of many. Your life with your horse is maybe an hour a day. The amount of time a person spends with their horse can be limited, and what does the horse do the remaining 24 hours? If horses do not have a social life with other horses, and a rich, complex environment, you can bet that affects their overall behavior,” Dr. Foster said.

Moving

“Horses need the ability to move freely,” Dr. Foster strongly encouraged. Happy horses are free to run, roll, turn wildly, race around and kick up their heels -- not just move in a fixed way, such as lunging. All of this can play a role in a horse’s behavior.

“Horses able to move more freely are usually more physically fit for competition or riding. And mentally, they are more resilient and buffered against stressors,” Dr. Foster said. For example, think of how a barn-kept horse under saddle might react to a large owl spreading her wings to swoop from a tree, compared to a pasture-kept horse or one with intermittent turnout.

Consider these four characteristics as they relate to your own horse’s happiness. Is your horse displaying each of the four signs, or could a few changes be needed? Learn more information at ValleyVet.com to help keep your horses healthy and happy.

This article originally appeared on Valley Vet and is published here with permission. Valley Vet Supply was founded in 1985 by veterinarians for people just like you - people who want the very best for their four-legged friends and livestock.

There are more informative articles in our section on Health & Education.

What is it, when is it a problem, how to treat it.

Read more: Seedy Toe White Line Disease

Equine core muscles are very difficult to isolate with the traditional training techniques common to horse sports. However, by examining what we do with the human body when faced with a weak core, we can find new methods for conditioning these areas of the equine body. Simon Cocozza has taken principles of the human practice of yoga and used them to develop novel ways of reaching deep within the horse’s body.

Read more: Core Conditioning for Horses - Book Trailer

By Tony Hawkins, DVM, Valley Vet Supply Technical Service Veterinarian

Just like with people, horses are more likely to combat respiratory challenges in the colder months. Besides the drop in temperatures alone, other contributing factors include the drier air and decreased immune function in the lungs. When we’re looking at respiratory challenges impacting horses, the greatest risks include equine influenza, Rhinopneumonitis (Rhino) and strangles. To help horse owners understand each, we’re looking at these three conditions closely within a three-part article series – covering aspects from disease spread to signs, treatment considerations and prevention. Let’s begin with the topic of equine influenza.

Background

The equine influenza H7N7 subtype was first reported in the 1950s and last reported in the 1970s. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention reports “[H7N7] is now considered to be extinct. The EIV H3N8 subtype was first reported in horses in the United States in the 1960s and still spreads in horses globally today.”

Equine influenza is spread from horse to horse through contact with infectious nasal secretions. This can occur through direct, nose-to-nose contact with an infected horse. Coughing is also a very common cause of spread, as well as contact with what we call fomites – meaning inanimate objects like feed buckets, brushes, tack, clothing and hands – that have those nasal secretions on it. It's been reported that a horse’s cough can travel as far as 150 ft, so it doesn't have to be nose-to-nose contact for this disease to spread. After horses are exposed, it's only a one- to three- day incubation time and should they become infected, they can shed for up to 14 days. Equine influenza attacks the normal immune functions of your horse’s lungs, which causes an increased susceptibility to secondary bacterial infection and bacterial pneumonia.

Signs

A cough is a pretty classic sign of flu. Horses also may demonstrate fever, nasal discharge, lethargy and loss of appetite. Some horses that become infected may not show any symptoms; they are called asymptomatic shedders.

Treatment

Most importantly, horses will need rest and supportive care, which will differ a little bit from horse to horse and case to case. Rest is very important. You don't want to exercise those horses or add any stress because that just makes things worse. The most common recommendation from the experts is to provide one week of consecutive rest for every day of fever, even if they start feeling better before that rest period is over. For horses experiencing fever or secondary bacterial pneumonia, non-steroidal, anti-inflammatory medications and antibiotics would be needed. Work closely with your veterinarian on treatment options available.

Prevention

To prevent equine influenza, consider the steps we take to shield ourselves from the flu.

Vaccination plays a very important role in prevention of disease. Should vaccinated horses become exposed, either one, it's not as serious should they become infected, or two, the vaccine will hopefully prevent the disease from taking hold. As for vaccination timing it really comes down to a few things – the immune status of the horse and the risk of exposure. I recommend annual vaccination for horses with lower risk and twice-a-year vaccination – every six months – for horses with high risk of exposure or those who may have questionable immune status.

The following groups of horses I would consider high risk and recommend they receive twice-yearly vaccination:

• Young or senior horses
• Horses traveling frequently or have exposure to those who do
• Those residing in boarding/training barns with frequent new arrivals

Cleaning is very important when you're caring for animals. Clean and disinfect your tack, buckets and anything that your horse or others could come in contact with. If you have any sick animals on the premises, you really need to care for the healthy ones first and then care for the sick ones last, so you don't pick up the infectious materials and take it to your healthy horses.

New arrivals need to be quarantined for at least two weeks from your resident horses. And if you take your horse somewhere else and then come back home, quarantine that horse away from your other horses at home for at least two weeks.

Through vaccination and best management practices, you can help prevent your horse from equine influenza risk. Stay tuned for part two of this series.

About the author: Valley Vet Supply Technical Service Veterinarian, Tony Hawkins, DVM, attended Kansas State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine. In addition to his role on the Technical Service team at Valley Vet Supply, Dr. Hawkins owns a mixed-practice veterinary clinic in Northeast Kansas and is treasured by the community for his care across species. He is greatly involved in cattle health, including processing and obstetrical work, as well as providing hands-on care for horses and pets through wellness appointments and surgery.

All photographs and images courtesy of Valley Vet.

This article originally appeared on Valley Vet and is published here with permission. Valley Vet Supply was founded in 1985 by veterinarians for people just like you - people who want the very best for their four-legged friends and livestock.

There are more informative articles in our section on Health & Education.

We understand that blanketing horses can seem overwhelming. But take a deep breath, friends, we’re here to help simplify with this in-depth but simplified horse blanketing guide. Continue reading for understanding of reasons to blanket horses, different horse blanket types, sizing horse blankets, cleaning horse blankets, helpful tips and more!

First, Why Horses Are Blanketed

There are two main reasons horse owners blanket their horses and ponies:

• To keep horses sleek for the show ring
• To provide comfort during inclement weather conditions

Different Horse Blanket Types & When to Wear Each

There is much to consider when selecting a horse blanket, details such as age, body condition and coat thickness. Additionally, horses across the country experience a variety of climates, weather conditions and stabling environments. Luckily, just as your closet holds clothes tailored to the day and season, there are different types of horse blankets available, too, so you can select just what your horse needs when he needs it.

Let’s first look at a few horse blanketing basics -- sheets vs. blankets and turnout vs. stable. How familiar are you with the differences between each?

Sheets vs. Blankets

A horse sheet is lightweight and is perfect for those mildly cold or windy days. They have no fill.

A horse blanket offers fill, which is essentially a form of insulation sewn into the blanket to add warmth (think of your poufy winter coat!) The higher the fill number on a blanket, the cozier the pony on those cold days.

Turnout vs. Stable

Sheets and blankets come in two varieties: turnout and stable. To put it simply, turnout sheets and turnout blankets are intended for horses at turnout. They will feature waterproof material to keep pasture ponies dry. Without waterproof technology, a wet horse blanket could only make your horse colder, which is of course not what was intended!

Stable sheets and stable blankets are ideal for horses kept inside a stable and are not made from waterproof material. They serve an important purpose by keeping stabled horses comfy, warm and sleek.

Understanding Warmth & Durability

When you are selecting a horse blanket, you will notice a few number sets under the product descriptions, noting denier and fill.

Denier denotes the durability of a horse blanket or sheet. It measures nylon fiber density on the outer material of horse blankets. Denier ranges from 70 to 2400D. The higher the denier, the more durable it is for those tough-on-blanket horses (you might have one or two in mind!)

As we shared earlier, fill is padding that adds an extra layer of warmth to your horse’s blanket. Both with denier and fill, the higher the number, the tougher or warmer the blanket’s material will be.

Do you know the degree of blanket warmth your pony needs and when? We put together this easy-to-reference chart to help as a guide!

Weather Conditions	Grams of Fill
50-60°	Sheet (0g)
40-50°	Light blanket (100g)
30-40°	Light or medium blanket (150 to 250g)
20-30°	Medium or heavy blanket (200 to 300g)
Below 20°	Heavy blanket (300 to 400g)

Measure your horse for a blanket or sheet

Did you know that wardrobe malfunctions happen to horses, too? It’s true! If a horse’s blanket or sheet isn’t properly fitted to him, it could slip off to the side, which could cause him to trip or tangle, possibly resulting in injury.

Learn how to measure a horse for a blanket with these quick and simple horse blanket sizing steps. When measuring your horse, start from the center of his chest and measure around the widest part of the shoulder, along the barrel and around the widest part of the hindquarter to the center of the tail. Keep your line horizontal to the ground. His blanket measurement will be the same as the number of inches measured. If the exact number of inches is not available to select from, size up to the nearest measurement.

5 Tips for the Perfect Horse Blanket Fit

Before buckling your horse’s new duds and sending him to the back field amuck, double-check your measurements to make sure the blanket is a perfect fit. First, put on the horse blanket, and check that:

• Fastened chest straps overlap slightly and fit snug but not too tight
• Surcingles fit loosely with about four fingers width between his stomach and the straps
• There is only one hand’s width between each leg strap on your horse’s thighs
• The end of the blanket stops just above where the tail starts
• Fabric is not pulling tightly against his shoulders or blanket hangs too low

Storing & Cleaning Horse Blankets

Properly storing and cleaning horse blankets and sheets will help them last.

You also can extend the life of your horse’s blanket by keeping it up off of the ground and away from opportunistic rodents who may look at your gorgeous new blanket as a home (or worse -- a snack!)

During the colder months, when you may appreciate quick access to your horse’s blankets, you can store blankets with blanket racks, which can hold several blankets at once, keeping tack rooms tidy and fluff-free. Or, you can look into individual solutions for blanket storage, such as a horse blanket wall rack to hang on your horse’s stall door or a blanket storage bag.

horse blanket rack

After your horse’s blankets have protected them from the rain, snow and the muck of cold weather, it’s time for a good cleaning. You can either opt for cleaning horse blankets yourself, or, you can send them to a blanket laundry service.

Cleaning horse blankets may be easier than you think! Just follow these steps.

3 Steps for Cleaning Horse Blankets

1. Pre-wash - Use stiff brush to remove excess horse hair, mud and dirt. Hose off blanket, and hang to dry.
2. Wash - Wash using a horse blanket detergent, such as Saddle Pad & Horse Blanket Wash by Absorbine.
3. Dry - Hang horse blankets to dry in a shady area to avoid color deterioration of the material.
   *Follow manufacturer’s cleaning instructions for best results.

Shop horse blankets for sale at Valley Vet Supply to ensure your horse is snug as a bug with a high-quality horse blanket or sheet that meets his specific needs.

All photographs and images courtesy of Valley Vet.

This article originally appeared on Valley Vet and is published here with permission. Valley Vet Supply was founded in 1985 by veterinarians for people just like you - people who want the very best for their four-legged friends and livestock.

There are more informative articles in our section on Health & Education.

Understand symptoms of choke in horses, and beware signs of choke in a horse.

When one sees their horse choking, it’s a cause for alarm and expedient action.

What does a horse choking look like?

In one instance, a 7-year-old Thoroughbred took just a few bites of alfalfa pellets, immediately retching to take a breath. The gelding coughed as gobs of fluid and feed distributed from his nostrils. At first, he was alarmed, then soon lethargy took over and he displayed pneumonia-like symptoms.

What are symptoms of choke in horses?

Symptoms can include feed material coming from the nostrils, hypersalivating, retching, coughing, and other signs similar to colic in horses, according to the American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP). This can be a dangerous condition -- one to take seriously.

What causes choke in horses?

Most commonly, choke in horses is caused by eating concentrated feed too quickly. When the feed is not chewed up appropriately, it is not softened with saliva, according to AAEP, which details how “This forms a firm bolus that gets lodged in the esophagus.”

Forage like hay or alfalfa cubes are the most frequent cause of choke in horses. Choke in older horses, or horses with poor dental health, can be common. But any horse, no matter their age, is at risk. Tony Hawkins, DVM, Valley Vet Supply Technical Service Veterinarian recommends horse owners, “Soak the grain and forage-based pellets and cubes to help horses better chew it up and help them pass it down.”

What immediate steps should be taken for a horse choking?

• If you see a horse choking, and it’s not resolved on their own within 30 minutes, call your veterinarian to come out or haul them into the clinic if you have to. Always have a backup veterinarian/24-hour clinic in mind.
• Gently massage their throat beginning from the top, down.
• Remove access to food and water, as “both could predispose them to aspiration,” warns Dr. Hawkins.
• Choke can sometimes resolve on its own, as the saliva will break down the food matter so it can pass through. But again, follow the 30-minute rule above and phone a veterinarian if not passed through by that time.
• DO NOT:
• Attempt helping your horse pass the blockage yourself, using a garden hose. Doing so could puncture the esophagus. Accidentally worsening the situation, some horse owners pull up the horse's head to ‘help’ him pass a blockage. This only lodges it further.

What does treatment for choke in horses entail?

Treatment for esophageal choke in horses often requires that a veterinarian sedate the horse before passing a nasogastric tube to clear the obstruction, while simultaneously flushing with water to remove the lodged material. AAEP notes that a second approach may be used by veterinarians. Based on the theory that most chokes eventually self-cure, horses may receive several rounds of sedation, as the medications help to relax the esophageal muscles, coupled with fluids to keep the horse hydrated. Should treatment be too much delayed, horses risk dehydration, or death.

Beware the after effects of choke in horses.

AAEP describes how the after effects of choke in horses can be equally as dangerous as the choke itself, stating “Most importantly, chokes predispose horses to aspiration pneumonia, which is caused by feed material going down the trachea and into the lungs. This foreign material in the lungs can cause the horse to develop a secondary bacterial infection.” It’s not uncommon for veterinarians to prescribe antibiotics for your horse to help mitigate the risk.

After a choke episode, be sure to monitor your horse’s temperature for several days, recommends Dr. Hawkins. A fever is one of the first signs of pneumonia. Other symptoms include nasal discharge, coughing, and labored breathing and increased respiratory rate. Normal respiration rate in a horse is 10 to 14 breaths per minute.

Read more: FAQ: Is Your Horse Choking?

By Juliet M. Getty, Ph.D.

It's easy to spend a fortune on the next fancy feed, supplement or gadget. Sure, there are plenty of worthwhile products that may very likely improve health and reverse illness, but none of them truly matter without meeting these five foundational principles. These are true for all horses, regardless of age, breed, condition, or purpose. Even seasonal or regional variations do not alter these.

Here is what every horse needs. Period.

Water - the most important nutrient

It must be plentiful, clean, and of the right temperature to encourage horses to drink. A horse at maintenance, living in a temperate climate will require a minimum of ½ to 1 gallon per hundred pounds of body weight. For the 1100 lb (500 kg) horse, that equates to 5.5 to 11 gallons (21 to 42 liters) per day. [i] However, his demand for water will increase with activity and warmer temperatures. Here are some factors to consider:

• Water must be freshened daily. Dead insects, bird droppings and excessive pond scum can poison your horse [ii]. Using smaller water troughs can make cleaning easier.
• Never add salt or electrolytes to your horse’s only water supply. Plain water must always be available.
• Pasture is high in moisture, typically containing 60 to 80 percent water, whereas most hays have only 7 to 10% moisture.
• High protein diets increase water requirements since protein can have a diuretic effect.
• During cold weather, horses drink less, especially if the water is ice cold. This potentially leads to dehydration – the main cause of colic in the winter. Heating water between 45 and 60 degrees F (7 to 15 degrees C) will promote more water consumption. Be sure the heater has no exposed wires that could electrify the water source.
• If you rely on creeks or ponds, the water must be moving and deep enough to not freeze.
• Snow consumption will not meet your horse’s water requirement. One gallon of average snow contains only 10 ounces of water. Also, eating snow will force your horse to burn precious calories needed to keep his body temperature steady.

Salt is required daily, regardless of the season

In cold seasons, salt helps promote that all-important water consumption. In warm seasons, supplemented salt replaces what is lost from perspiration. A full-sized horse requires at least one ounce (two level tablespoons or 30 ml) of salt each day for maintenance -- this much provides 12 grams of sodium. Heat, humidity, and exercise increase the horse’s need. There are several ways to accomplish this:

• Granulated salt can be offered free-choice. Check your source for prussic acid, an anti-caking agent. This contains cyanide and should be avoided.
• Mined sea salt offers many minute quantities of trace minerals that are typically not available in the average diet. [iii]
• A salt rock should be available should your horse want more. Experiment with different natural types to see what your horse enjoys most. Many horses, however, are not comfortable with constant licking.
• If salt consumption is too low via free-choice feeding, calculate the amount of sodium your horse is getting from any commercial feeds or supplements and add salt accordingly. (For palatability, limit the amount to no more than 1 tablespoon per meal.)
• Do not offer electrolyte supplements instead of plain salt. Electrolytes are meant to replace perspiration losses and fed in addition to salt. Never add electrolytes to your horses only water supply.
• Watch the iodine content in mineralized salt preparations. Too much iodine, and not enough selenium, can damage the thyroid gland. Iodine and selenium intakes need to be similar.

Forage is the foundation of the diet – it must flow through the digestive tract 24/7

Horses are grazing animals and are designed to consume forage virtually all day and night, only taking a few minutes here and there to rest; this also includes ponies, minis, donkeys, and mules. There are many reasons why your horse must always have hay and/or pasture:

• The horse’s stomach produces acid continuously, even when empty. The acid in an empty stomach can lead to the formation of ulcers anywhere along the gastrointestinal tract.
• The cecum, where fiber is fermented, has its entrance and exit at the top; therefore, it must be full in order to evacuate digested forage. If not, substances sink to the bottom, potentially leading to impactions and sand colic.
• The digestive tract consists of muscles which are “exercised” by the steady flow of forage. “Flabby” muscles can twist or intussuscept (telescope)—increasing the risk of colic.
• An empty stomach causes incredible stress, creating a hormonal response that raises insulin, an inflammatory hormone that can potentiate laminitis. Elevated insulin also tells the body to store fat.
• Stress from forage restriction can lead to obesity, a damaged metabolic rate, laminitis relapses, and inflammation of the hypothalamic region of the brain, accelerating the development of leptin resistance and even Cushing’s disease. [iv]
• Elevated stress also impacts immune function, making your horse more susceptible to infections and allergies, as well as negative reactions to vaccinations.

Don’t let anyone scare you into thinking that feeding hay free-choice will damage your horse. Please read “Equine Digestion – It’s Decidedly Different” to empower you with the knowledge needed to help your horses. [v] Hay testing and commercially available “slow feeders” are worthwhile for many horses. [vi]

Replace what hay is missing

Many horses rely entirely on hay for their forage needs. Is hay nutritious? Not very. Hay is dead grass; it no longer contains many of the vitamins, omega 3s and omega 6s it once had as living pasture. It does, however, contain protein, carbohydrates, and minerals, and is a significant source of energy. Consider the following to fill in the nutritional gaps:

• Add a comprehensive vitamin/mineral supplement that offers what hay is missing -- beta carotene (or vitamin A), vitamin D, and vitamin E.
• Vitamin C is lost in hay; however, young horses’ bodies produce adequate amounts. As horses age, the liver can become less efficient at synthesizing this vitamin.
• Add a variety of protein sources by feeding several types of forages. When only one type of hay is fed, the protein quality of the diet is poor and can prevent your horse from replacing and repairing tissues throughout the body.
• Sunlight exposure is needed for vitamin D production. The precursor to vitamin D is naturally found in grass, but diminishes the longer hay is stored.
• Simulate the fatty acid content of grasses by providing a feed source that has more omega 3s than omega 6s. Chia seeds or ground flaxseeds are good choices.[vii]

Movement, companionship and shelter are vital necessities

Horses need to move and have the protection of a buddy. Standing in a small area for hours on end (even if part of it is outdoors) takes its toll on your horse’s mental and physical health. So does being isolated from buddies. The stress can be so great that it dramatically diminishes your horse’s quality and length of life by compromising his immune system and hormonal responses. We see the effect in a vast variety of health issues:

• Obesity, insulin resistance, loss of muscle mass, and sluggish metabolic rate
• Porous bones and potential fractures
• Inadequate blood circulation, reducing the flow of nutrients and oxygen to the feet, joints, tendons/ligaments, and hair follicles
• Potential for digestive disorders including colic, ulcers, and diarrhea
• Compensatory behavior, including weaving, stall-walking, pawing, wall-kicking, chewing, head-bobbing, self-biting, and even cribbing
• Slowed cartilage and joint development in growing horses
• Accelerated aging, increasing susceptibility to infections, insect-borne diseases, and allergic responses
• Increased oxidative stress, promoting degenerative diseases such as arthritis and equine Cushing’s disease at a younger age

Read more: Every Horse Needs These Five Things