by DD Kingscote
It's hard to describe the little bit of magic that happens for me when I put my foot down in Africa, especially Kenya, the land of my birth. It's like taking off a heavy winter overcoat and revealing the skin underneath. There are places in Kenya that are so “right" that they bring comfort to one's very soul. So you can see that I am biased before I even begin to tell you about "my kind of therapy".
I am a rider and for many years was a competitive rider and that was my "skill." Later, due to my enduring love of Africa, I became a small, personalized tour operator and it gives me great pleasure to enable others to feel that "little bit of magic" too.
Imagine my delight when asked to arrange a "proper" luxury tented mobile safari in Kenya. It had to be the real deal.An "Out of Africa", “Karen Blixen" type Safari; high quality, with a dashing guide and well prepared horses, and importantly, "off the beaten track in beautiful areas where wild game roams."
I knew just the outfit, Gordie and Felicia Church of “Safaris (Un) Limited Africa" who would deliver all of the above and more. I approached others who had expressed an interest and so gathered a team of 9 interested riders and myself. They weren't going without me.
Most riders/ travelers have only heard of the famous Maasai Mara as a place to see big game in Kenya. This is a justified and excellent game rich choice and wonderful for both riding and vehicle safaris. I wanted to show off MY favorite part of Kenya so I chose the “Lollboran ride” in Laikipia, a beautiful area resting under the shadow of Mt Kenya. Thankfully my group trusted my judgement and the dates were set.
Laikipia is a vast expanse of wild country in the central highlands of Kenya. It is rich with fascinatingly diverse cultures, the essence of this country, scenic landscapes and abundant wildlife.
We were to traverse three of the greater Laikipia conservancies, Lolldaiga, Ole Naishu and Borana.
I had a wonderful group, of which I knew some but not all. I needed to get to know more about them, most importantly, their riding skills and fitness. This is key to a successful trip, not only for the allocation of the horses but also for the balance of the group. My job is to make people happy and have fun so knowing about them helps me to get this right. Some had never been to Africa, or been on a riding safari, some were old hands. Some were riding fit, some needed reminding that they must get their fitness up and their rumps acclimatized to the saddle. Being uncomfortable would make them unhappy and inadvertently bring the group down. This was a BIG event for all participants; it might be the only one of its kind in their lives and it had to live up to expectations.
There is also the safety element. Gordie is an exceptionally knowledgeable guide and he has an experienced back-up team so we were all set to have plenty of fun. Hopefully not get into trouble; but this is Africa, not a zoo. We are dealing with wild animals, some of which are meat eating predators. Couple this with the new team of horse and rider, one must be prepared for any eventuality. Riders have to be safe in the saddle and able to gallop away from danger if asked.
On arrival I was happy to see camaraderie between guests, high excitement and positive comments when they arrived at our first beautiful camp site. Having shaken hands with the team and inspected their tented bedrooms they all seemed more than pleased. The attention to detail brings reassurance and exclamations of joy, especially where the ablutions were concerned. What is a "short drop", how will the shower work? Will I be safe in my tent, can I wash my hands, where do I do my teeth?
Our first two camps on the Lolldaiga’s were stunningly located; both offering totally different views. The riding, about 6 hours a day, is varied, as is the topography. Good use is made of stopping for a rest at high view points, then dropping down into a wooded valley for a surprise bush breakfast, or a run back to camp for lunch and a siesta.
The days had a pattern and rhythm to them always with the anticipation of what was around the next corner. We saw game; elephants, Impala, buffalo, giraffe, warthogs, oryx, eland and more, every day. We saw a lioness watching us from a long way off sitting high on a rock. It was an incredible spot. We discussed birds, flora and fauna, all explained in detail by Gordie.
We ambled, cantered, chatted with one another or we were silent with our own thoughts, just enjoying the sound, smells and sights of Africa. We felt it seep into our very bones, making us relax, happy in our own skin. It's the best form of contentment.
The horses are mainly Thoroughbred or Thoroughbred crosses, they are looked after beautifully and are fit for their job. They are part of this family set up and much loved, tuned to Africa and to each other making perfect companions. The main lesson we learned was to listen to and trust one's horses judgement, they know the county far better than we do. If Gordie’s trusty Boerped as lead horse told him something was ahead he believed it.
The thing I noticed as the days went by is that people's faces lightened, they smiled and laughed, they became alert to the nature around them and excited by it all.
Initially the night noises of lions or hyenas, the husky cough of a leopard seemingly nearby, caused sleepless nights and the crossing of legs until morning. As the days passed, snuggled into bed, a hot water bottle warming the toes, we waited instead in eager anticipation for the thrilling noises knowing the night watchmen had banked up the fire by the horse’s picket line to keep us safe. By the end of the week I for one slept through the noise. It took the mass of twittering birds and the sound of early morning tea arriving at the tent to raise me from my slumbers.
The whole camp moved to a new and beautiful camp site every two days, a mammoth task and a logistic miracle. You definitely get your money's worth. Each day brought a new adventure, new sightings, an even better view than the last, and we didn't see another "European" for the whole week except those that had been invited to join us for dinner. I have not yet mentioned the food and hospitality which was impressive to say the least. Food was cooked over the camp fire and was delicious. Sampson, with his cheeky smile was always on hand to offer drinks. He created the best animal napkins and table decorations filched from the local undergrowth that I have ever seen.
The last camp was on Borana Conservancy, one of my most favorite places where we had a chance to see the endangered rhino, both black and white. They are heavily protected on this and the neighboring Lewa Conservancy living peacefully and breeding successfully. We saw both species, keeping well away from the more reactive black rhino and her new calf.
We did the occasional evening game drive, giving the horses a welcome break. This enabled us to get closer to some animals as they don't associate vehicles with people. We spent a happy hour watching an elephant family as they romped in the dam, covered in mud, followed by a sundowner on a high topped hill where we marveled at the view with Mt Kenya as the backdrop. As I wrote at the beginning, "my kind of therapy."
Feedback
“I am not sure if the words thank-you is sufficient to express how much I really enjoyed the riding safari. It was a great experience on so many levels, left me with some new friends and a bucketful of fantastic memories. I know at some point we’ll all get together to relive the highlights, but it was a perfect break and very, very well organized.” - Chris O, Somerset, England
“I really appreciated the logistics of moving the camp each time, lock, stock and all. The spectacular riding, the outstandingly beautiful camp sites, the hot water made available for our showers and the passion for the country and wildlife. It was infectious.” - Di G. Somerset, England
“The holiday fulfilled all my aims and wishes and although I had no exact expectations, they would have been exceeded.” - Sophy M, Somerset, England
About the Author
My name is DD Kingscote and I have run my travel business, Outposts Travel Africa, from my office in Somerset, UK for the past 15 years. I have arranged lots of safaris for both UK and American clients and word of mouth is my best advertisement.
I have just posted photos from this riding safari on my website travelafrica.outposts.co.uk.
Contact
Outposts Travel Africa
Lydeard Farm, Broomfield, Bridgwater, Somerset, TA5 2EG
Tel: +44 (0) 18230451959
Email: contact@outposts.co.uk
Web : travelafrica.outposts.co.uk
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P O Box 24181 - 00502, Nairobi, Kenya
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