Health & Education
We all want the best care possible for our horses. The Heath & Education section covers both Learning Institutions, Organizations as well as many sources for equine assistance including Veterinarians and Farriers.
For those who want a to formally study horses, the Education section includes College Riding, Equine Studies, and Veterinary Schools. Learn about the wide variety of horses in the Horse Breeds section. Supplements and Treatments Therapy are also included in the section.
Everyone can learn from Fine Art and there are some specialty Museums that might surprise you.
Horses as a therapy partner enrich the lives of the disabled. These facilities are listed in our Therapeutic Riding section. To help children and young adults build confidence and grow emotionally, please see the resources available on the Youth Outreach page.
Looking for a place to keep your horse? You can find it in the Horse Boarding section. Traveling? Find a Shipping company or Horse Sitting service if your horse is staying home!
Want to stay up to date with the latest training clinics or professional conferences? Take a look at our Calendar of Events for Health & Education for the dates and locations of upcoming events.
Do we need to add more? Please use the useful feedback link and let us know!
Dr. Dorothee Bienzle is a researcher at the Ontario Veterinary College who has been researching heaves in horses. Not long after the 2019 Havemeyer Workshop on Equine Asthma, Dr. Bienzle contributed to a quite large collaborative research paper on the current understanding and future directions of Equine Asthma research.
She explains by answering the following questions:
00:35 How important are opportunities like this one to advancing the studies on Equine Asthma?
01:20 Has your research benefitted from attending the Havemeyer event?
02:24 Briefly describe your research project.
04:47 What role does next generation sequencing play in your research?
06:49 Can you explain the connection between certain altered protein expressions and horses with heaves?
08:31 Are there predictors of equine asthma?
09:06 Can you take us through the scoping procedure?
10:11 More indicators of heaves.
11:38 Practical applications and treatment.
13:23 The future of Equine Asthma research.
How much does horse ownership really cost? The short answer is that it depends. There are many variables that come into play when calculating the cost of horse ownership. In this video we will look at some of these variables, to help you in determining the cost of owning your own horse.
To learn more about the cost of horse ownership, please take a look at Equine Guelph's 'Annual Horse Expense Sheet', which will outline necessary purchases and their average cost.
Read more: The Real Cost of Horse Ownership - Jackie Bellamy-Zions (5:51)
Things to keep in mind when your dog is near large animals, plus dog training tips for your cattle dogs and barn dogs alike!
Whether working cattle, or trotting happily alongside you and your horse on the trails --- if you have a dog, life on the farm, or time at the barn, means you’re likely never alone. And while it may seem commonplace, cattle dogs and barn dogs live a unique lifestyle, being nearby 1,000-pound livestock, horses and heavy farm equipment. Their lifestyle requires grit, wit and intelligence. It is crucial to help safeguard your dog’s safety and well-being.
Learn what to do should your dog be injured at the farm, and training tips for a dog’s safety.
DEALING WITH ON-FARM PET INJURIES + WHAT TO LOOK FOR, STEPS TO TAKE
When it comes to injuries stemming from large animals and livestock, they can range from mild, requiring dogs only rest for a few days, to life threatening. “We’ve seen dogs with head trauma from horses or cows, and even limb amputations after getting too close to a mower bar. We’ve definitely seen some things,” said Paul DeMars, DVM, DABVP, clinical associate professor at Oklahoma State University’s College of Veterinary Medicine.
All dogs (even those well-trained) can be at risk for injuries stemming from horses and livestock, as their instincts ultimately play the largest role in their behavior.
“My dogs are well-trained, agility dogs. They are always good and are well-trained not to chase horses. However, I had a dog that fell victim [to injury from livestock],” said Kris Hiney, Ph.D., Oklahoma State University associate professor and Extension equine specialist.
Dr. Hiney was out one evening feeding, with one of her three agility-trained dogs by her side --- a Border Collie named Avispa --- when her horse at the other end of the field began galloping not toward her and the feed bucket, but straight toward her dog. She gave her command for Avispa to recall, but his Border Collie instincts kicked in, and he crouched into the grass. As the horse neared, the horse lowered his head and curled up his front legs, intentionally coming down directly onto Avispa.
Dr. Hiney quickly bundled up Avispa and went to an emergency veterinary clinic. Thankfully, he pulled through and is fine today.
“The reality of horses and dogs is something not to take lightly,” said Dr. Hiney. “Some owners may not realize how badly a dog can get hurt. A lot of horses are dangerous with dogs. Cattle don’t seek them out as much, unless dogs are in their space. It is 100% instinctual, as even well-trained dogs who do this for a living can get kicked, and they can be severely injured when working cattle.”
Should your dog experience an injury, Dr. DeMars recommends you monitor, immediately, if they are:
- Up on all legs and mobile
- Favoring any limbs
- Experiencing any seizures
- Completely conscious
“If animal is unconscious, get them to your veterinarian right away,” said Dr. DeMars. “Even if an animal is up on all four legs, there still could be internal bleeding, and he could be falling over two hours later, dead. Taking your dog to your veterinarian is always the best answer.”
Steps to take, should your dog be injured:
- Share pictures with your veterinarian.
Before driving to the clinic, use your cellphone to take pictures of the injury or wound, and share with your veterinarian. This will help the office prepare for your dog’s arrival and for swift treatment.
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Have a 24-hour emergency veterinary clinic on speed dial.
If your dog experiences head trauma, he requires precise care and likely, 24-hour monitoring, which is not always an option at a primary veterinary clinic. For such cases, it is best to immediately take your dog to the nearest emergency veterinary clinic or University veterinary school.
- Refer to your stocked first-aid kit.
Assist wounds to help stop any bleeding. If it’s a leg injury, wrap the leg just as you would wrap a horse’s leg (apply a sterile lube, then gauze and then cover with vet wrap or bandages, going in the direction of front to back with gentle support --- not too tight or too loose).
- In some cases, use direct pressure.
If your dog experiences heavy bleeding, he could be suffering from a ruptured artery. Apply direct pressure to help stop excess blood loss. Get to your veterinarian, fast.
INCREASE SAFETY FOR DOGS ON FARM OR IN THE BARN + TRAINING TIPS
For years, Dr. Hiney has trained dogs for agility. She has three Australian Shepherds and one Border Collie. When it comes to working cattle, Dr. Hiney says, “Just because they’re a herding dog doesn’t mean they are naturally good around livestock. It means they have intense interest in livestock, and that interest has to be channeled through training.”
While any dog can learn to be good around livestock, it is important to realize that cattle dogs, for instance the Blue Heeler, Catahoula and Corgi, will be attracted to it and stimulated by the livestock’s movement. “A lot of people think dogs can help while working cattle, but only a trained dog is helpful. An untrained dog creates more chaos and anxiety from both livestock and people. If your dog isn’t trained, he needs to be secured. Tie or pen them up safely out of the way, with water.”
Training tips from Dr. Hiney to increase your dog’s safety:
- For cattle dogs, talk to dog trainers who do herding and cattle dog training.
Professional cattle dog training offers a safe space for your dog’s learning, by working with livestock that are “dog broke,” meaning they know how to move from a dog’s pressure. They also can start them on sheep and goats, for a safer option. While a cow dog is bred instinctually to herd, they will benefit both mentally and physically from professional lessons and training to channel their instinctual habits into more strategized skills.
- For barn dogs, seek out training options.
Check your surrounding area for professional dog training classes. Keep in mind, well-mannered dogs are often welcome at horse shows and barns; however, a misbehaving dog nipping or barking is a quick way to be shown the door. In today’s world, there are even online dog training options available, and the World Wide Web is filled with helpful training videos as an option, too.
- Teach dogs the basics.
Dogs among livestock and horses should know commands for recall, down and stay. Teach them the boundaries of what they can and cannot do. They will look to you for the correct answers.
- Don’t let “funny” and “cute” behaviors fly.
Allow no recreational cattle or horse chasing, barking or nipping at all, if you can avoid it. This ‘playtime’ can easily turn problematic.
- Use positive training methods that reward good behavior.
Use treats, toys and your undivided attention to make training the most rewarding and fun part of their day. This will keep them happy and engaged with you to make the best choices.
- During training, keep them on a long line before rewarding them with off-leash.
For their safety’s sake, not returning to you cannot be an option. Using long lines (essentially a long leash) can prevent bad habits from forming. This is a best practice before letting your dogs off-leash.
For a wide range of pet products, such as toys, treats and life-saving medications, visit veterinarian-founded ValleyVet.com for your dog’s every need, shipped fast.
Horse owners, are you geared up to keep horses in winter time safe, sound and healthy? There is much to think of, and plan ahead for, as it relates to winter horse care -- especially if you are caring for an older horse.
Our friends at Absorbine said, “Winter can be particularly tough on our beloved senior horses. Cold temperatures can mean stiff, sore joints, snow and ice can be a challenge to navigate, and brisk Northern winds can deliver a deeper chill to old bones.”
How can you take extra precautions to keep an older horse comfortable this winter? Read up on these tips from Absorbine.
- Keep older horses snug in a rug.
Although horses in good health with full coats do just fine in the winter elements without a horse blanket, senior horses in winter often need a little extra warmth. If you have a senior horse that has trouble keeping weight, has particular health issues, or doesn’t grow as thick a coat as he once did, it’s a good idea to provide them with a blanket.
Waterproof and windproof is best, protecting them from icy gales and wintery mix precipitation that can permeate the coat and chill him to the bone. Make sure the blanket fits well, doesn’t cause rubs, and straps are secure and properly adjusted. It’s also important to remove the blanket regularly to groom and check their weight. Last, outdoor horses of all ages need a wind shelter in cold temperatures. A basic lean-to with a roof for them to stand under is all you need to keep the worst of the rain, snow and wind off your horse. They’ll be warm, cozy and stylish all winter long.
- Pack on the calories.
Winter is of course the time for horses to bulk up, as they use the calories they intake to feed their inner furnace and keep them warm from the inside. Older horses often aren’t able to utilize their calories as well as they did as youngsters, and are typically on the leaner side anyhow.
Sometimes, our old friends need a little extra help staying plump when it’s cold. Hay is the key here, and more of it. Increasing your senior horse’s helping of quality hay in the winter will help add calories and keep his body warm. As a horse’s back teeth wear down with age, older horses may have trouble chewing their food, so be sensitive to that. And if this is the case, look to alternatives like hay cubes that can be soaked until soft for easy chowing.
- Ensure horses are hydrated.
Proper hydration is critical for all horses but especially senior horses in winter. They are prime candidates for impaction colic, and lots of water will help reduce that risk and keep everything moving smoothly through the system. Be sure to supply your horse with plenty of clean water that is a comfortable temperature to drink all day, every day. Be sure to keep it from freezing by keeping it protected or using insulated and heated buckets. If your older horse is reluctant to drink, try warmer water, or add a little apple juice for a tasty treat. Keeping a salt lick accessible will also help him work up a thirst.
- Keep paddocks safe.
You definitely don’t want your senior slipping and falling out in the winter elements, so inspect paddocks and pastures regularly to make sure they are accessible and safe for the old folks. Keep icy spots in check by sanding regularly, and clear paths if the snow is very deep. Access to shelter is a great source of comfort for senior horses in winter; a simple lean-to shed can be enough to offer relief from snow, wind, ice and rain.
- Ensure horses are comfortable.
ButeLess, a favorite Devil’s Claw supplement for horses, is known for bringing relief from the aches and discomfort that may be exacerbated in cold winter months. To help ease the aches and pains that bitter cold winters accentuate, include a scoop in your senior horse’s daily feed. The Devil’s Claw, Vitamin B-12, and Yucca will provide long-term relief the natural way.
These ingredients are gentle on the stomach, so you can deliver the relief your senior needs without worrying about upsetting his tummy. Stiff, creaky joints are common in the winter, but with a little ButeLess, he’ll be bounding happily through snowdrifts until spring.
Hoof boots provide horses with the support they need for everyday use, therapy, trailering and more. When purchasing hoof boots at Valley Vet Supply, each product page will have a horse boot size chart, which you can specifically look to, in order to make the best sizing decision for your horse. Learn all about measuring for hoof boots in the article and video below, and implement the following four tips to help ensure proper hoof measurement for your horse's Easyboots and Easycare hoof boots.
Horse Hoof Boot Size Chart
- After a fresh trim, measure the width of the hoof across the bottom at the widest point.
- Measure the length of the hoof from the toe to the buttress line of the heel. The buttress line is the farthest weight-bearing point of the heel where the hoof wall ends. Do not include the heel bulbs in the measurement.
- Compare your measurement with the appropriate size chart. Each boot style has its own unique size chart.
- Ideally, the length and width measurement will fit into the same size. If the length and width measurements indicate different sizes, select the larger size. If the width and length measurements are different by more than one size, your selected boot style is not recommended.* Be sure to check your measurements against an alternative boot in the EasyCare line, as another style may better accommodate your horse’s hoof shape.
Look to our selection of hoof boots to provide your horse constant hoof protection, while still enjoying the benefits of a barefoot horse. Measuring for hoof boots doesn't have to be hard. Check out this EasyCare blog for a fitting assistant! There, you can use your smartphone or a digital point-and-shoot camera to take crisp images of your horse's hoof, and answer a few brief questions, for assistance with hoof boot fitting and sizing. An Easy Care representative will be in contact with you within just one business day to help you determine sizing, and then you can place your order at Valley Vet Supply for Secretariat-fast shipping.
Dr. Scott Weese, University of Guelph Researcher, outlines best practices for Horse Farm Infection Control.
Read more: Infection Disease Control tips for Horse Farms - Dr. Scott Weese (15:52)
By the EIE Editorial Staff
Barn cats can be amazing allies for horse owners, providing both direct and indirect benefits and a great greeter when you visit your horse at the barn! The barn environment may also be a place where cats who are otherwise unadoptable can live a happy and fulfilling life. Here are some of the benefits of having a barn cat.
Pest Control
- Natural hunters: Their primary benefit is keeping rodent populations in check. Mice and rats can damage feed, spread disease, and even gnaw on horses' tails and manes. By taking care of these pests, barn cats help protect your horses' health and well-being.
- Deterrence: Even their presence can deter rodents. Their keen senses and reputation as predators scare away unwanted critters, reducing the need for other pest control methods.
Cost-Effective
- Sustainable solution: Compared to traps, poisons, or professional pest control services, barn cats are a more natural and cost-effective solution over time.
- Low-maintenance: While you'll need to provide food, water, and shelter, they generally take care of themselves, requiring minimal intervention. A great idea is affordable pet insurance.
Other Benefits
Specifically for Horses
- Reduced stress: Some horses seem to be less anxious with cats around, which can be helpful for nervous or easily spooked horses.
- Pest control around feed: Rodents can contaminate feed with droppings and attract other pests. Barn cats help keep feed areas clean and safe. Reduced risk of disease: Rodents can carry diseases harmful to horses, and keeping their populations low minimizes the risk of transmission.
However, it's important to remember
- Not all cats are suitable: Choosing barn cats with the right temperament and hunting skills is crucial. Consider adopting feral cats with strong hunting instincts. Many rescue organizations call them “working cats” and may be available through your local animal shelter.
- Proper care is essential: Provide them with food, water, shelter, and regular veterinary care, including vaccinations, spay/neuter and parasite control. As these are generally outdoor cats, it is vital that these cats have regularly scheduled veterinary appointments as they are exposed to much more than indoor cats.
- Safety first: Ensure cats and horses can interact safely. Introduce them gradually and provide enough space and escape routes for both.
Overall, barn cats can be valuable additions to a horse farm, offering natural pest control, companionship, and contributing to a healthy environment. But remember, proper care and responsible management are essential for everyone's well-being.
Read more about cats in the special edition of National Geographic’s Secret Life of Cats.
You can find more interesting stories in our section on Health & Education.
There have been impressive advancements in equine dentistry during the past few years. From cavity filling, periodontics, and root canals to orthodontics and oral surgery. Today Dr. Brad Tanner, one of the few boarded equine dentists in the world, treats an overbite in a thoroughbred foal.
Read more: Treating a foal's Overbite with Dr Brad Tanner from Rood & Riddle Equine Hospital
by Alicia Skelding, Equine Guelph
Introduction
The term Biosecurity refers to management practices that reduce the chance infectious disease will be carried onto a farm by animals or people and the spread of infectious disease on farms. All infectious diseases of horses result from the interactions between the animal and its ability to resist disease (immunity), an infectious agent (bacteria, viruses, and parasites) and the environment. These relationships allow opportunities for preventing or reducing infectious diseases.
Horses
New Arrivals
The most common way infectious diseases are spread is when a new horse arrives at a property that is a carrier of the disease. A veterinary examination is recommended prior to purchasing a horse. Depending on where the horse has originated from, the veterinarian may advise for specific tests to be conducted to rule out infectious diseases.
New horses should be isolated from resident horses for thirty days. The horse should be checked daily for signs of illness, including monitoring the horse’s temperature, food and water intake. Separate stable/yard equipment, buckets, grooming supplies, tack etc should be used for new horses and marked with red tape. The new horse should be handled last, morning and night, and hands should be washed upon leaving the horse’s stall or paddock.
Vaccination
Vaccination can be a critical aspect of controlling infectious diseases because in many instances owners cannot prevent exposure. It is important to remember that vaccination cannot prevent disease. Vaccines perform best if the disease challenge is minimized. In some instances, vaccination does not provide protection against infection but merely decreases the severity of clinical disease. Vaccination serves to increase resistance against certain diseases in individual horses as well as horse populations.
A vaccination program is most effective when it is planned to meet the particular needs of a farm. Setting up a strategic vaccination program means:
- determining what diseases to vaccinate against
- identify who will most benefit from vaccination, and
- finding out when they will most need the protection that vaccines provide.
Your veterinarian will provide guidelines for a vaccination program that suits your needs.
Quarantine
Quarantine, in which a horse is completely separated from contact with other horses, is a smart strategy for limiting the transmission of disease. It’s a good idea when you have a sick horse to separate him from his apparently healthy barn mates. When you have a new arrival they should be quarantined from resident horses.
When setting up a quarantine facility whether it is one stall or many, consider how you will best limit the spread of infection.
- Limit the amount of shared airspace between quarantined horses and the general population – ideally by placing the isolation stalls in a separate building.
- Limit movement of insects, by screening doors and windows and using insecticidal sprays.
- Equip the quarantine facility with separate feeding, mucking and grooming equipment.
- If possible, your quarantine barn should be downwind of your main barn.
Quarantine is not strictly for sick or new horses, horses that have left the farm for showing or breeding purposes also have the potential to bring home germs. These horses should be isolated for at least two weeks, making sure there is no noseto-nose contact.
Humans
Personnel
Assign specific individual(s) to care for affected horses. Ideally a caretaker should not be responsible for both healthy and exposed/affected horses. If unavoidable, care of healthy animals should be completed first; exposed animals next; affected animals last. Disposable gloves, plastic booties and barrier clothing should be used when working with sick horses.
After handling sick horses, gloves and booties should be disposed of in a sealed trash container and clothing placed in a covered hamper. Hands must be washed under running water with liquid soap for a minimum of 15 seconds.
Visitors
Ideally there should be only one entrance / exit into your farm, marked as the main entrance. Parking should be away from horses to help keep disease-carrying organisms from being tracked from car floors or tires to your horses. If the farrier or veterinarian needs to park closer, be sure their tires and shoes have been disinfected. Ask all visitors to wear clean clothes and shoes. Give visitors plastic shoe covers, or brush dirt off their shoes and spray with disinfectant. If you have many visitors, such as a farm tour or open house make a footbath for them to walk through.
Records of visitors to your farm with date, time, name and purpose of visit should be kept. On larger properties, record details of horse(s) the visitor came in contact with.
Away From Farm
Coming into contact with a diseased horse at an event/activity is another way in which horses can be infected with a disease. When attending events take your own equipment (buckets, tack, grooming supplies), do not share your equipment or use communal water troughs. Monitor your horse’s health while at the event. Avoid tying/yarding your horse with other horses thereby minimizing direct contact and always wash your hands if you have touched other peoples horses. Good records of horse movement should be kept as well as disinfecting equipment, tack and transport vehicles after returning from the event.
Management Practices
Manure and Bedding
Waste management procedures are not limited to organisms shed in feces but are applicable to all infectious agents. Manure on wheelbarrow tires, tractor tires etc is a potential source of the infectious agent and can be tracked everywhere on the grounds if tires are not properly cleaned and disinfected. Do not put waste material from the stalls of affected horses onto open-air manure piles/pits. Do not spread manure from affected horses onto pastures.
Equipment/Supplies
Horse-specific equipment (fed-tubs, water buckets, halters etc) should be clearly identified as belonging to an individual horse and be used only by that horse. Shared equipment (lead shanks, lip chains, bits, twitches, thermometers etc) should be cleaned of organic debris and disinfected between horses.
All equipment should be thoroughly scrubbed and cleaned with detergent and water, rinsed, disinfected and followed by a final rinse. This should be done in an area with minimal foot and traffic flow that can be cleaned and disinfected after this procedure. Cloth items (saddle pads, towels, bandages) should be laundered and thoroughly dried between each use (disinfectant may be added to rinse water). Equipment that cannot be effectively disinfected (sponges, brushes) should not be shared between horses. Multiple dose medications should be labeled for use by a specific horse and not shared.
Disinfecting
The number one rule for disease control is cleaning. This means the removal of all manure and feed, followed by washing, scrubbing, rinsing or pressure washing, all surfaces with hot water and detergent. This is followed by the use of a disinfectant.
There are three steps in order for this process to be effective. Step one: remove loose material. Surfaces must first be cleaned in order for disinfectants to be effective. Ensure all manure and dirt is brushed off the surface. Step two: wash. Wash the item or surface with warm soapy water and rinse thoroughly and dry. Step three: disinfect. Once the item or surface is dry, disinfectant can be applied.
Tack items and footwear can be wiped with a disinfectant wipe or can be sprayed with disinfectant and wiped over with a clean dry cloth. Horse transport vehicles and floors of stables can be sprayed with disinfectant made up in a spray bottle or large surface sprayer.
When choosing a disinfectant, it is also important to refer to the specific product claim including the spectrum of activity. It is important to read the labels carefully and to follow the directions including accurately calculating the dilutions and respecting the recommended contact time.
Environment
Vermin control is critical, as pests can transmit a number of diseases. Rodent, bird and insect control should be evaluated and upgraded as necessary. Screens should be installed in stall windows. A control program may include the use of traps, repellants and/or insecticides/rodenticides. Non-equines (goats, cats, dogs) should not be permitted within the primary perimeter.
Conclusions
Every horse owner needs to do everything they can to reduce the risk of an infectious disease from being introduced to their property and horses. Taking basic precautions is common sense and once you are in the habit, they are quite easy to implement. Reducing the incidence of infectious disease in our animals, saves time, money and enhances the quality of life for both horse and owner. Prevention is always easier than cleanup.
Equine Guelph is the horse owner and caregiver’s Centre at the University of Guelph, supported and overseen by equine industry groups, dedicated to improving the health and well-being of horses.
This article originally appeared on Equine Guelph The University of Ontario, Canada, and is published here with permission.
DOWNLOAD a PDF of this information.
You can find more informative articles in our section on Health & Education.
- Biosecurity: When and How to Isolate
- Do You Ride Big or Small? and excerpt from "Ride Big" by John Haime
- Rood & Riddle "Stallside" Podcast - The Science and Benefits of Equine Plasma with Sarah Myer Thompson (38:11)
- Olfactory Stimulation Enriches Horses’ Environments
- Whole Food Options to Boost Protein Quality
- Monty Roberts Gentling Your Spooky Horse (4:17)
- The Biomechanics of Engagement :The Essential Components of Self Carriage (18:19)
- Monty Roberts: A Real Horse Whisperer (49:43)
- Julie Goodnight: Don't wear a bike helmet for horseback riding-- here's why.... (0:30)
- Julie Goodnight: Quick Tip to Stay out of Horse's Kick Zone, CHA (0:29)
- The Uniqueness of Icelandic horses, Part 2 (7:15)
- Beyond Dust Reduction: Soaking Hay Improves Lung Function in Asthmatic Horses
- Air Quality and Air Pollution’s Impact on Your Horse’s Lungs
- Empty Fields Everywhere Why Movement is So Important
- Restricting Forage is Incredibly Stressful - Choose a different approach for weight loss
- Reading the Horse's Vital Signs with Teddy Franke (1:43)
- The Uniqueness of Icelandic horses - Part 1 (8:02)
- Polo Wraps & Standing Wraps with Jody Taylor
- Blanketing the Horse Safely with Tammi Gainer (8:35)
- Care and Cleaning of Riding Boots with Julie Goodnight (18:15)